Samoa Surf Sessions 12-15 ft day!

Charging the cold water of Samoa, my home here in Humboldt California.  I paddled into a world class left, barreling beach break.  I dropped in to a 12-15 foot wave, my body fully exposed, the foam feathering behind me, I held my line high and let the wave spit me out before it closed out.  I charged leashless and worked soooo hard to stay warm and manuver in these wild seas.  I am loving life and the great ocean which teaches me and lets me see...!!!!!!
swirl down, all around, up and down, then ~charge it even harder in an eternal search for the best wave! This is life...I charge the cold waters of Samoa, CA, here in humboldt, my home on the peninsula. I paddled into a world class wave, a huge left grinding the sand bar, spitting, speeding and barreling, ~whooo! I charged...dropping into a 12-15 foot wave, my body fully exposed, the foam feathering behind me. I held my line high and let the wave flow~ to spit me out. I flew through the emerald portal of barrel! Spit out right in front of a massive wall of white energy explosion!!! I hold on tight, I have no leash tonight, the sun is setting bright through the grey sky.
Riding through water, to catch the bomber of the day, I charge it as hard as I ever have today. Holding my line ~gliding across a huge wave after wave, diving down deep, holding on on tight to my board which is just a free as me today with no leash, working as hard as I can until I am finally floating down the face, so huge and perfect! I caught it! Believe me it wasn't an easy task getting out to sea. The channel will suck you out, real easy, and just right of the channel the waves are pounding!
I surfed in laps because the current was so strong pulling me down the beach. The first paddle out I charged straight into the wave, this epic left, I figured I would get to know it more, head on! I barely made it outside before the most bombing set came to take me down. The Right that was curling then closing into the macking left took me under. Holding on deep down to the bottom of the sandy sea floor, I was sucked away in the arms of the the sea, dragged down the beach in one blank swirl, catching one good wave on the inside then washed up with the redwood stump! On the shore, I was more tired then I ever thought I could be, I layed in the sandy shore water letting all of me relax, breathing and floating as the tide pulsed. I respect every hearytbeat and every breath.

The second lap, I paddled out at the perfect time. This time I charged into the channel which was basically lots of moguls (if you were in the snow), mountains of waves, 4-6 feet of constant motion under me. The current was strong out to sea and the motion was an intense, wild ride in foam infinity. I paddled out of that as soon as possible, this time having a better orientation on the right hand side of the macking left. I paddled over glassy seas that were covered in a thick foam residue, huge swells rolling under my belly. I watched a set come through.
Soon enough I saw the wave for me. Thankful for my fins I dashed to the perfect take off, the whole of the wave lining up right under me, I drop in, skipping on a high line, the feather of the wave splashing behind me. My body is fully exposed on the massive face. A little Iya in the bowling left, cruizen, so fast and free, so much wave space before me. Dropping low to a portal of barrel straight through the closeout with the right that got me last time. Being in this barrel is like emerging from the sea caves, the blue room in Kauai. It was like popping out of a bubble, there was a little window for me to fly through, straight out to the foamy waters of infinity, to be swept back to the sea shore, feeling the wave crash into me all the way to the shore where I lay in ecstacy.
I ran back down the beach, so stoked to have caught such a great wave. When I got back to where my friends were at I saw that one of my buddies has lost their board to a broken leash. This was a friend who was just learning how to surf and it was his birthday. Instead of going after his board he let his board wash in and he kept swimming out the channel, in fear of the macking waves that were crashing about. I decided that I needed to paddle back out. After being in the water for ten minutes, paddling through white wall after white wall and not seeing my homie, I thought that something must be wrong, why did I not see him at least paddling in, getting pounded? After twenty minutes I figured the Coast guard had been called... He got sucked out to sea, and was rescued bobbing in the high surf. By the time I got out of the water this time, too distracted to really catch waves thinking about my friend in distress, another surfer had paddled deep into the channel and had him ride on his board tandem on their bellies.
Once I knew my homeboy was safe I paddled out for another go around. This time paddling out with the surfer who just rescued my friend. We got out to the break zone and I ended up getting pounded and loosing my board. I was able to get to it, after sprinting as fast as I could with my fancy fins. But by that time I was too inside to paddle back out. I came in and the coast guard was there along with four sheriffs. Crazy, I made sure that my buddy was ok, gave thanks to the coastal rescue crew and even waved to the helicopter as it flew over and did a little dance for us watching on the beach.
My fifth lap out into the sea was about pure energy. I knew that if I charged it one more time, I would be stronger for my next session, and so I jumped back into the knarly sea and charged it to catch the left again. Making back to the outside, it just turned out that a big set came and took my board away from me. I swam into shore, knowing that I could swim hard and make it to the shore no problem, I even caught up to my board, but I was working with all of the adrenaline from the epic and macking left that I caught!!!That was it for the day, i was so thankful...and hungry.

Since I have been back to the West Coast after having so many amazing surf sessions on the islands of Hawaii, I find that I charge even harder then I was before I left. I have a new level of confidence that allows me to catch waves like I never did before. I think that after riding perfect waves over the reef, along with the experience of growing with the sea in Cayukeee, learning how to ride the fast beach break I am evolving my wave riding and stepping up my surfing skills. One thing for sure, I have a ton of fun in the ocean, and rejoice in its majesty, when it grasps me and lets me ride, fly...